Wall Mounting a Monitor: Studs, Anchors and What to Check First

Before you buy a wall mount for a monitor, check four things in this order: what the wall is made of, where the studs are, whether the mount's stated rating and hole pattern match your monitor, and how the cables will reach the screen. The wall is the part buyers forget, and it is the part that decides whether the mount stays up.

This guide covers the checks that come before you drill. It does not replace the instructions that come with your mount, which name the fasteners and the wall types it is designed for. If you are unsure about the wall, ask a qualified installer.

Step 1: Identify the wall

Different walls need different fasteners, and some mounts are not designed for certain walls at all. Two manufacturer manuals show the pattern. The Philips manual for its tilt wall mount says that on drywall the mount must attach to at least two wood studs, that they must be able to carry the load, and that on concrete you use concrete anchors set according to the instructions. The Monoprice installation instructions for an adjustable wall mount say the hardware is not designed for steel-stud walls or cinder block, and give separate procedures for wood studs and for solid masonry.

Those are examples for particular mounts, not general rules, but they show why the first question is the wall. Common cases:

• Drywall over wood studs: usually the straightforward case, with the mount screwed into studs. Read your mount's manual for the screw type.
• Drywall over metal studs: some mounts exclude this, as the Monoprice manual does. Check the manual before buying.
• Solid masonry or concrete: needs masonry anchors suited to the material, and the right drill bit. The manual will say which.
• Plaster, tile or panelling: the surface layer may be fragile and the structure behind it unknown. This is a good time to ask an installer.
• Rented wall: check your lease before drilling at all.

Step 2: Find the studs and check what is behind the wall

A stud finder is the usual tool for locating studs. The Philips manual advises using a quality stud finder and drilling into the centre of each stud. It also warns to check for pipes, wires and other hazards before drilling. If you cannot tell what is behind the surface, or the layout looks unusual, stop and get a qualified person to check. Electrical items and hidden services are not something to guess about.

Two practical points follow from the manuals:

• Studs, not drywall, carry the load. A mount that needs two studs needs two studs in the place where you want the screen, which may not be where you want the screen.
• If studs do not line up with the position you need, choose another way to position the screen. A desk-mounted arm or a freestanding stand avoids the wall entirely; see our monitor arm versus stand comparison and the monitor arms category page.

Do not substitute fasteners for the ones the manual specifies. Hardware in the box is matched to the mount, and the wall-fixing screws are often different from the screws that hold the monitor.

Step 3: Match the mount to the monitor

A wall mount lists a weight rating and a hole pattern. Both must cover your monitor. Find the monitor's weight without stand and its mounting hole pattern in the maker's manual or spec page, then compare with the mount's listing. Our VESA mount compatibility guide explains the patterns, adapters and screw lengths.

Remember that the mount is only one link. Wikipedia's article on the mounting standard, a secondary source, describes the arrangement for the largest bracket type: the bracket maker should warrant that the bracket can carry its advertised weight, while the end user or contractor should warrant that the wall or ceiling where it is hung can handle the load safely. The mount's rating says nothing about your wall. That is the reason the earlier steps come first.

Extra reach adds leverage. An articulating arm pulled out from the wall puts more stress on the fixings than a fixed mount flat to the wall, so read the mount's guidance. If the monitor is heavy or wide, see our monitor arm weight capacity guide for the load and balance side.

Step 4: Plan the position and the cables

Decide where the screen goes before you mark the wall. The OSHA computer workstation page says to centre the monitor in front of the user, with the top of the screen at or slightly below eye level, and to allow adjustment of distance and tilt. A fixed wall mount at standing height can be a poor fit for a seated desk, so mock the position up with tape or cardboard first and sit in front of it. Our ergonomics and adjustability guide covers the settings.

Then plan the cables. Power and video cables need a route to the monitor, and a short rated cable may not reach once the screen is on the wall. Measure the run from the computer to the screen, including the vertical rise. Longer runs have their own limits, which our guide on active and passive cables for long runs explains. Do not run cables inside a wall unless the work is done by someone qualified and the cable type is approved for it; for power, ask a licensed electrician.

Step 5: Install in a safe order

1. Read the whole manual, and check the parts list against the box.
2. Mark the stud positions and the mount height. Check with a level.
3. Check for pipes and wires before you drill, as the Philips manual advises.
4. Fix the wall plate with the specified fasteners, into the specified material.
5. Attach the mounting plate to the monitor with the screws that fit its holes, and check that they are the right length.
6. Lift the monitor into place. Philips recommends two people for its larger display, and a second pair of hands helps for any heavy or wide screen.
7. Tighten the safety screws or locks if the mount has them, then test the tilt and swing joints gently.

If anything feels loose, soft or uncertain, take the monitor off and look again. A mount that moves when you push on it is telling you something about the wall or the fixings.

Check before you buy

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