Buying a Refurbished or Open-Box Monitor: What to Check First

Judge a refurbished or open-box monitor on five things: the exact condition label and who assigned it, the warranty and who backs it, what is actually in the box, the return window, and what the monitor does in its first day on your desk. A good one saves real money. A bad one is a used panel with no recourse. The label alone cannot tell you which you have.

This checklist is for anyone shopping used, refurbished or open-box displays, on a marketplace or from a retailer. It assumes you want the monitor to work for years, not just to survive the return window.

What the condition labels mean

Sellers use similar words for very different things. eBay publishes definitions for its condition labels, which makes a useful reference even if you buy elsewhere. Retailers and other sellers may use their own wording, so read their definitions too.

The labels describe the item as the seller sees it. They are not a guarantee about the panel. Treat a listing with no photos, no condition text or only a vague phrase such as "works great" as a warning sign.

The warranty: who backs it, and from when

A refurbished monitor is only as safe as the promise behind it. Ask four questions and get the answers in writing, or find them on the listing.

• Who backs it? The maker, the retailer, the refurbisher or a third-party warranty company are all possible, and they have different claim processes.
• How long, and from when? A warranty that starts at your purchase date is worth more than one that started when the monitor was first sold.
• Does the maker's original warranty carry over? Do not assume it does. It can depend on the seller, the proof of purchase and the model. Look for a clear statement.
• What does it cover? Look for words on dead pixels, backlight problems and the panel, because those are the faults a monitor buyer cares about.

As an example of what a program-level promise looks like, eBay's refurbished program page says every purchase includes a warranty serviced by a third party at no extra cost, with two years of coverage for Certified items and one year for the other three grades, starting on the purchase date. That applies to listings that carry the program's grades. A listing outside the program is governed by the seller's own terms. Dell's return policy page points buyers of Certified Refurbished and Outlet items to separate product terms, so check them on the product page before you pay.

What should be in the box

Open-box and used monitors often arrive missing parts. A monitor with no stand or no power lead is not usable until you find one, and some stands use proprietary fittings. Ask for photos of the exact unit and everything in the box, or check the listing's contents line, before you pay.

• Stand and base, plus any screws or the tool needed to join them.
• Power cable or external power brick; monitors differ.
• A video cable that suits the monitor's ports; a USB cable if it has a hub.
• The manual or a link to it. The maker's site will have it if not.
• VESA holes on the back if you plan to use an arm, and no damage around them.

Returns: the part that decides how risky it is

A strong return window removes most of the risk of a used monitor, because you can test it and send it back. Check that the window applies to the condition you are buying. Best Buy's standard return policy, for example, states that its window applies to new, clearance, open-box, refurbished and pre-owned products. eBay's refurbished program page says buyers have 30 days to return an item for free, with certain exceptions. Dell's return policy gives 30 days from the invoice date, with exceptions for certain products. Read the live page, because terms change.

Our guide to monitor return windows explains the lines to read in any return policy, including restocking fees and packaging rules. If a seller offers no return at all, only buy at a price you would accept for a monitor that might fail.

Test it on day one

Do the checks while you are still in the window, and keep the box.

1. Photograph the unit and box before you set up. Compare the screen and bezel with the listing photos.
2. Check the screen for scratches, marks on the coating and stuck or dead pixels using solid color screens. Our guide to testing uniformity, dead pixels and backlight bleed shows the routine.
3. Look for uneven brightness, glow at the edges and tint shifts on a gray or dark screen.
4. Wobble the stand and run through its height, tilt and swivel. Listen for grinding or looseness.
5. Test every port, the USB hub and the headphone jack if it has one, with devices you know work.
6. Reset the on-screen menu to factory settings and note the firmware version if the menu shows it. Our firmware update guide explains when updates matter.
7. If it is an OLED, show a dark gray screen and look for faint outlines of menus, taskbars or logos. Our OLED longevity guide explains why those appear.

When to buy, and when to walk away

Refurbished and open-box monitors make most sense when the model is one you already researched, the seller states the condition clearly, the warranty and returns are written down, and the price gap against new is large enough to justify the extra checking. If the gap is small, the new monitor with a full warranty is the easier choice. Our budget monitor guide helps you judge what a lower price gives up.

Walk away from listings with no photos of the unit, a seller who will not state the condition, no return option, or a warranty line you cannot find. Be extra careful with OLED monitors: ask how the unit was used, because heavy static use is the main burn-in worry and is hard to see in photos.

Frequently Asked Questions